Sikh Gurdwaras of Kallar Syedan: Heritage and Partition History

The villages surrounding Kallar Syedan in Punjab’s Potohar region preserve the remains of gurdwaras, havelis and other buildings associated with communities that lived here before Partition.

During my journey through Kallar Syedan, Kanoha, Thoa Khalsa, Choa Khalsa, Doberan Kalan and neighbouring settlements, these buildings revealed two closely connected stories: the architectural heritage of Potohar and the devastating displacement of 1947.

This regional history forms part of Pakistan’s wider Sikh heritage. Readers can begin with our guide to historic Sikh gurdwaras in Pakistan and then explore the nearby Bedi Mahal in Kallar Syedan.

Prior to 1947, the Muslim population of region that is now Azad Kashmir, was sick of their Hindu-Dogra ruler. This was because of his excessive taxation to please the British and his repeated use of terror to suppress rebellion.

In March 1947, several months before the formal Partition of British India, severe communal violence spread through Rawalpindi District and surrounding rural settlements.

Sikh and Hindu communities in villages including Thoa Khalsa, Choa Khalsa and Dhamali suffered killings, abductions, forced displacement and the destruction of homes and religious buildings. The violence became one of the most painful early episodes of the Partition of Punjab.

Thoa Khalsa is particularly remembered for the deaths of Sikh women and children who entered a well during the attack. Historical studies interpret the event within the wider context of communal violence, fear of abduction and the destructive idea that women carried the “honour” of an entire community.

These events should be discussed carefully, without romanticising death, assigning collective guilt to later generations or turning human suffering into a political argument.

It didn’t have to be this way. Baba Guru Nanak in 15^th century had preached a religion that was supposed to be a bridge between Hindus and Muslims of India. Why would he go through the pains of memorizing the Quran, performing the rituals of Haj and keeping a Muslim companion (Bhai Mardana)? The later day Sikhs’ adopted a more puritanical line, and more syncretic with the Hindu religion, totally ignoring their Muslim aspects.

Well there you have it. Thousands of West Punjabi Sikh were killed because of one wrong political move.

It was painful to hear the stories of killings and it was equally painful to see the wretched poverty of the community that lost its most bright and industrious stars. The culture of self-governance, community living and civility left with the educated Sikh and Hindus of Potohar. The unfortunate victims were dumped into ablution wells of Gurdwara and killed in the far flung communities out of Kallar Syedan.

I quickly went to Kanoha to see something beautiful for a change and lo and behold a beautiful, blue eyed, Kashmiri refugee lady standing in front of the gorgeous Kanoha Gurdwara.

Gurdwara Tapiana Sahib at Kanoha

After visiting the sites associated with Partition violence, we travelled to Kanoha, approximately 10 kilometres from Kallar Syedan, to see Gurdwara Tapiana Sahib.

The gurdwara is associated with Sant Attar Singh of Mastuana, who is believed to have meditated in the surrounding acacia woodland. Sant Teja Singh later led the construction of the gurdwara, beginning during the 1930s with support from Sikh communities across Potohar.

The square, multistorey building has arched openings, a prominent rooftop canopy and Gurmukhi donor inscriptions. These inscriptions are particularly valuable because they preserve the names of individuals and villages that contributed to its construction.

The building resembles a fortified structure, but it was created as a place of worship and spiritual retreat. Its surviving architectural and inscriptional details deserve professional documentation and conservation.

The good news about the Gurdwara is that the Sikh community of this area was rescued by the army in 1947 while it was still under siege by an angry mob. The army had to kill a few to get them to let the Sikh families leave. While the Sikh were waiting for help to arrive, they kept firing from the roof top dome of this fort like Gurdwara.

To shake of the sounds of shrieking women and children jumping into Dukh Panjini Gurdwara well from my head, we took an off road route to the calm and serene phalina noor dam and chilled there for a while.

More Sikh heritage around Kallar Syedan

Kallar Syedan and the surrounding Potohar countryside contain several places connected with Sikh history. The most prominent is Bedi Mahal in Kallar Syedan, a richly decorated historic residence associated with the Bedi family.

Travellers interested in the wider regional story can also read about Gurdwara Panja Sahib in Hassan Abdal and the historic Sikh gurdwaras of Pakistan.

The abandoned gurdwaras around Kallar Syedan are not merely old buildings. They preserve traces of Potohar’s former communities, religious traditions, craftsmanship and the enormous human rupture caused by Partition.

These sites need careful documentation, verified historical signage and conservation that preserves their inscriptions and original architectural character. Their stories should be told honestly and compassionately—not to reopen communal divisions, but to remember the people who once made this region their home.